tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10736608392151515002024-03-06T15:33:27.263+08:00Simply-RC - RC Cars, RC Airplanes, RC Helicopters, RC Electric Planes, RC BoatsSimply-RC features RC Cars, RC Airplanes, RC Helicopters, RC Electric Planes, RC Boats, RC Submarines, Radio Control Jets, RC Discussion Forums, RC Classifieds and Auctions.Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-2506390907282897252010-05-02T12:14:00.002+08:002010-05-02T12:29:54.652+08:00Working and Painting Tips for Fiberglass<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:arial;">Introduction to Fiberglass</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />When considering the strength compared to the space age canopies that are common on most pod and boom helicopters there is no contest. This plastic material is virtually indestructible at the penalty of being virtually un-paintable without specialized and expensive automotive primers and paints, there is also a very limited range of color available.</span></span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />Flexibility</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />A wonderful attribute of fiberglass is in its flexibility. However, fiberglass parts will migrate (change shape) while inside the shipping box. When two mating components are brought together and they do not align or mate, the culprit is a warped part. Many become upset and wish to lay blame but dealing with this is very simple when explained a simple procedure. Using a heat gun set at the high setting at a distance of 1-2 feet away, evenly heat the warped part until the outside surface is hot to the touch and the part has become pliable (flexible). Using adhesive tape, mate the two fiberglass parts together and let both parts sit until both parts have reached room temperature. Remove the tape and now both parts are stable and match one another. In some instances, depending on the location of the warp, the part may need to be held in an overextended position to achieve the proper shape when the part is finished.</span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />Working with Fiberglass</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />Difficult to work with, we disagree. Fiberglass is easier to repair than you think. Using today’s CA type of adhesives, a severe crack in a fuselage can be simply fixed and the repaired section is much stronger than in its original state. Add touch up paint and no one would ever know it had been damaged. There is a limit to this type of thinking where purchasing the replacement fiberglass part is simply cheaper and less work than performing major reconstructive surgery.</span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />The Paint Job</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />There is no magic to a good paint job, the true secret is time, patience and common sense. A beginner who thinks that they can throw paint onto a fuselage Friday night before flying on Sunday is dreaming, the helicopter would be flyable but even that is a stretch. The average beginner will spend the better part of a month to apply a good clean paint job.</span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />Preparing the Fuselage for Painting</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br />Examine all the fiberglass components to see where work needs to be done to allow a simple "bring up" of the fuselage. "Bring up" describes the necessary steps to complete all the jobs in order to start priming the fiberglass parts. Typical work that is done at this stage is rough sanding on seams and jointed components, filling of surface imperfections, adding panel lines and rivets, cutting required holes and preparation for priming.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />1. Start by thoroughly washing all fiberglass parts in mild detergent and warm water, this will remove any residue remaining from the molding process. Next wipe down all the parts with Acetone (from the hardware store). The Acetone will remove all traces of oil or grease that will affect the adhesion of two fiberglass parts or between the paint and the fiberglass. Now using fine steel wool or an abrasive pad commonly used for scrubbing dishes, scuff all surfaces that will be joined or receiving paint. What is important to note here is that we are breaking through the topmost resin surface and creating the best surface for adhesive or primer to adhere to. The prepared finish will have very fine score marks usually seen when the part is held to the light at a slight angle.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />2. This is the time to rough sand any accessories or small parts, using the 320 grit sandpaper, that will be assembled and attached at different positions on the fuselage. These can be marking lights, engine exhausts, scale fuel tanks, horizontal and vertical stabilizers, guns, antenna or any scale details being bonded to the fuselage. These accessories should be test assembled to make sure that all parts are prepared, and you will be able to see any problems that may arise in trying to paint these parts. Some thought should be put into how to hold the part as it is being painted. Go ahead and bond these parts at this time using the slow CA glue. A quick note on adhesives, as the fuselage resin is polyester, do not use any regular 5-30 minute epoxies to bond two fiberglass components together. Stability is specially formulated for this purpose and excellent for fillets. Epoxy and polyester will not bond properly to one another, but epoxy is good to bond unlike substances like wood or metal to themselves or other parts.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />3. Once the detail parts have been built into sub assemblies, they are ready to paint, use a filler in sections that have gaps or slight surface imperfections, occasionally there are voids (air bubbles in the resin) that occur near the surface that need to be filled. There are a lot of good fiberglass fillers on the market, it is best to check with your local hobby shop to get a recommended product. Try to stay away from porous fillers designed for wood as they will shrink and are not a good choice for large areas.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />4. Most major windows and accessory holes have will have been precut, leaving only those that have a user dependency like the type of exhaust system used on the helicopter or the exact exit position for the cooling fan shroud.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />4a. When making cutouts or holes in the surface of the fiberglass the best procedure is to drill a pilot hole using a 1/16" drill bit at corners or along a curve. Start with a permanent marker to draw the opening or window. The pilot holes serve to avoid leaving sharp corners which given the nature of a model will be the focal point for stress cracking originating from corners. Once the holes have been made, use the dremel-tool for all other roughing cuts. The cut off wheel is the best for straight lines and either the sanding drum or the curved stone is used for smoothing edges. If the cut out is a window, do not use the dermel-tool for the final work. Switch to a sanding block, square blocks of various sizes for straight edges and round dowels for rounded corners.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />4b. In the case of the exhaust opening, it should end up being 1/8" larger across the outside diameter of the exhaust pipe that extends below the bottom of the fuselage. After drawing the circle, use grinding stone and move in small circles until the hole is at the size wanted.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />5. Priming the fuselage accomplishes two tasks: firstly, the primer paint is designed to aggressively adhere to the surface being painted and provide the best surface for the colored paint to adhere to; secondly, all surface imperfections will become visible. Depending on the particular imperfection, light sanding with number 600 or 800 sand paper and the second priming will take care of 90% of the highly visible problems. The remaining 10% need to be filled, let dry, sanded again and then sprayed with the second coat of primer. The primer process will be repeated until the surface is as perfect as your patience and time permit.</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br />6. Select your paint color and follow the directions on the particular brand of paint being used as each manufacturer has different requirements.</span></span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-85951145876741792582009-11-17T19:21:00.002+08:002009-11-17T19:24:42.911+08:00Jig for Cutting 45 Degree Angle<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDQWT3V7x6EmjytSMC3mpSVIABNhVYE9XuZla-lTvxpUxp_gMNDOeToC7N2cp_cOV9iYi5Vlk4n0TH4KoVYdPatWG2LMyMpmbf4amkZ9rWlsf-_RKs_Wd0RlFTru0qUfMSrDwcMhNP3RF/s1600/45_Jig.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 204px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDQWT3V7x6EmjytSMC3mpSVIABNhVYE9XuZla-lTvxpUxp_gMNDOeToC7N2cp_cOV9iYi5Vlk4n0TH4KoVYdPatWG2LMyMpmbf4amkZ9rWlsf-_RKs_Wd0RlFTru0qUfMSrDwcMhNP3RF/s400/45_Jig.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5405031781023663330" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">This is a jig for cutting a 45 degree angle. Works especially great on foam, depron, etc.</span>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-35590267829985522032009-05-01T19:53:00.001+08:002009-05-01T19:55:30.485+08:00Common RC Heli Control Configuration<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Co-Axial Heli</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Co-Axial helicopters use a counter-rotating twin rotor design. Two sets of blades spinning in opposite directions eliminate the need for a tail rotor and provide excellent stability making these helicopters an ideal introduction to the hobby.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Collective Pitch (CP) Heli</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Collective Pitch Helicopters alter altitude by changing the blade angle using pitch servo combined with increased RPM from the motor (pitch/throttle curves decide the exact input of each variable and can be altered depending on ability).</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >Fixed Pitch (FP) Heli</span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Fixed Pitch RC Helicopters only have 4 channels and they increase in altitude by increasing power to the motor. They have curved blades to create more lift and lack the collective pitch (blade angle) method of lift. They have a very simple servo configuration making them easier to repair than a CP Heli.</span></span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-20954635528277286482009-04-25T14:41:00.009+08:002009-04-25T15:09:02.558+08:00EVO 12 Troubleshooting<div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Recently, my faithful EVO 12 decided to give up on me. Here are the symptoms. The right stick (for elevator & aileron control - I'm a mode 2 user) fails to respond. If you go under the Servos -> Monitor menu, both CH 1 & CH 2 show the bars in 100% end-to-end position. Similarly no respond by the right stick movement, but left stick movement shows the bar responding accordingly. I suspect to be the 74HC4051 chip or the Micro Controller (CPU) that is having problem.<br /><br />However, thanks to Mike from <a href="http://www.modelradioworkshop.co.uk/index.htm"><span style="font-family:arial;">http://www.modelradioworkshop.co.uk/index.htm</span></a>.<br /><br />Here's what he said.<br /><br /><strong><span style="color:#ffcc33;">The earlier production of the Evo's did have a problem with the wires to the stick pots, but this tended to only effect the horizontal stick pots. If your transmitter pots wire include yellow as the middle wire on the horizontal pots then this suspect wire. All of the main stick signals go to the main CPU chip, so I don't think it will be the 74HC4051 chip. I suggest that you measure the voltages at the pots it is around 3.28 across the pot and a centre voltage of 1.8 volts. Don't forget to remove the RF board from the transmitter so that the RF doesn'teffect the DVM reading. If that seems OK, I would then check that the voltages appear at the plug and socket for that stick on the main board. If that all seems fine then it's possible that the model data have become corrupt, so you could try sending a blank models data to the transmitter. Which is like resetting the transmitter to factory setting, this is available in the data manager program which you can get off the Multiplex web site. </span></strong><br /><br />All the hardware checks show things are in order & hence I tried reloading the software as recommended by Mike. However, after several software reloading tries, something new shows up. Like the Welcome Tone on powering up is now gone and the EVO keeps going into the Servos Menu after start up.<br /><br />Luckily with Mike's advise again.<br /><br /><span style="color:#ffcc33;"><strong>From what you are saying, it tell me that the transmitter has lost it's stick and slider calibration. Here is the proceeded to re-calibrate the sticks and sliders.</strong></span></span></div><ol><li><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;color:#ffcc33;"><strong>With transmitter off centre all of the sticks and the sliders.</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;color:#ffcc33;"><strong>Switch the transmitter on and then move each stick in turn to one end of its travel and wait for the LED by the ON/OFF switch to go out. If the transmitter tells you to move the throttle stick low, as you switch on make this the first stick to be move to its end of travel.</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;color:#ffcc33;"><strong>Do the same with the 2 slider controls.</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;color:#ffcc33;"><strong>Once you have completed this operation use one of the digi knobs to get out of this menu by dialling out to exit until you get to the normal display. The voltage level will show 0 volts at this point.</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;color:#ffcc33;"><strong>Now switch off the transmitter and the calibration data will be stored.</strong></span></div></li><li><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;color:#ffcc33;"><strong>When you switch the transmitter back everything should be displayed as normal i.e. voltage and trims etc. If the transmitter goes back into displaying the stick data i.e. percentage numbers it means that the calibration was not completed or not done correctly.</strong></span></div></li></ol><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">And Walla! My EVO problems are solved & it works just as fine as it did before. <strong>My sincere thanks to Mike!</strong></span></div><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify"></div><br /></span>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-27105098602522808302009-03-14T19:42:00.002+08:002009-03-14T19:47:18.245+08:00ClonePac for Futaba Radio<div style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRSbSw07sSpfE21oYMlMniU_cSnqBABn8jQ3E3vR7SxhHuM8IjRMKjJ-T9iTvccIYCraSLpYfEADtiSI1phmNJpBQba_DMUHZ0Lp2vAx13sIy8WDS5x1_CwWg6ksoJiFzCiERJmTVLyLe/s1600-h/clonepac.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 157px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRSbSw07sSpfE21oYMlMniU_cSnqBABn8jQ3E3vR7SxhHuM8IjRMKjJ-T9iTvccIYCraSLpYfEADtiSI1phmNJpBQba_DMUHZ0Lp2vAx13sIy8WDS5x1_CwWg6ksoJiFzCiERJmTVLyLe/s320/clonepac.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313007811702050130" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family: arial;">A simple to built memory add-on for Futaba Radio. This is a cheap, simple & effective circuit to expand the memory for your radio which you can built over a weekend. To make fabrication even easier, you could consider using a veroboard instead of etching your own PCB.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-27884091933862320112009-03-01T03:30:00.001+08:002009-03-01T03:32:39.223+08:00The Wall<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">The Wall or the Pop-Up: is when the airplane comes to a stalled stop into a vertical position from a horizontal flight path.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Full 3D Throws.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Enter from level flight into the wind with power off. Pull full elevator, neutral on the elevator as soon as plane is vertical. You can also enter from inverted which is one variation. Another variation is the Wall Slide, which enters going downwind...you, can actually maintain altitude for a few seconds without throttle while the wind slides the plane down the runway. You can also do a Wall slide with a twist. As the plane slows down in the vertical position, add rudder to make the plane spin around heading back into the wind.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Don't over rotate. The idea is a vertical stop.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Full power climb out.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-13183947061611537612009-03-01T03:27:00.000+08:002009-03-01T03:29:23.324+08:00The Terminator<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">It’s when the plane is flying straight and level and then makes a 90 degrees dive straight down toward the ground. When the plane gets close to the ground, you pull up.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Plane set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Full 3D rates.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">You will start out by making a straight and level pass down the runway. This maneuver can be done from a lot of different altitudes. To start out you need to be pretty high till you get your timing down. Speed is something else that you can play around with to do different variations. It looks better at a slower speed. After you have established your speed and altitude you will give the plane full down elevator. This will make the plane dive straight toward the ground. Let the plane come down to where ever your comfort level is. You will then pull full up elevator and add power. Once you have mastered the basics of this maneuver you can play around with different variations.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">Getting your timing down to just when to pull out.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family: arial;">There is really no recovery from this. You either do it great or hit the ground hard.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-68294850988085994482009-03-01T03:26:00.002+08:002009-03-01T03:33:44.202+08:00The Roller Coaster<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Plane is rocking back and forth from full up elevator to full down elevator diving straight to the ground.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full 3D rates</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Take the plane up to 100 - 150m of altitude. Bring the plane to a complete stall, as if you are doing an Elevator. This maneuver will be done with low throttle. You may need to give short burst of power to help control. Once you get the plane in an elevator you will be giving it full up elevator. You will then need to reverse the elevator input to full down. You will continue to reverse the elevator inputs pausing a little to let the plane get into either an upright or inverted elevator. Hold this till the plane reaches the ground. This is when you will decide to exit the Roller Coaster either in an inverted or upright Harrier.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Getting the timing down and keeping the plane straight.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full throttle, and slowly release some elevator.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-30488345038997676332009-03-01T03:25:00.003+08:002009-03-01T03:34:41.774+08:00The Yo Yo<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">This is an upright Water Fall. There are a lot of variations with this maneuver.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full 3D Throws</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">From a Hover, power out vertical. After the plane has reached 30 to 50m, pull power back give full up elevator and give a short burst of power. The plane will flip around into an Elevator. Let the plane fall back to the ground and power up and do it again. This maneuver looks best doing it two to three times making the loop smaller and lower each time.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Getting the plane to flip over into the Elevator position when you are doing it low.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full power, flight out straight.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-18357371170642388892009-03-01T03:23:00.001+08:002009-03-01T03:31:01.867+08:00The Snap Up<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The Snap-Up is when the airplane comes to a stalled stop into a vertical position from a horizontal flight path with a snap-roll in the middle. This is very similar to a Pop-up or Wall.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full 3D Throws.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Enter from level flight into the wind with power off. Pull full elevator and full right aileron at the same time. (Neutral on the elevator and aileron as soon as plane is vertical) The plane does a snap roll into a wall basically.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Don't under rotate. If you do the plane will be pointing nose down toward the ground. That's not good unless you have plenty of altitude. Practice this up high until you get your timing down. This is a real crowd pleaser when done correctly. </span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full power climb out.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-27926686580870373202009-03-01T03:22:00.001+08:002009-03-01T03:29:54.761+08:00The Panic<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The Panic or Blender maneuver is a vertical diving roll that virtually stops its descent as it instantaneously enters into a flat spin. Presented at TOC 1998 and named by Blaine, I designed this maneuver always looking for the highest performance at what it is called surprise factor and I remember it did work very well. You climb high, guessing 300 feet idle and punch down to a perfect vertical line, add some left aileron to do a kind of slow rolls during that dive. Then when you reach an altitude that is good for you, the airplane will suddenly go to a flat inverted position.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Simple, nothing special here, you need to go to your set up that you use to do the 3D aerobatic, so high rate a a lot of deflection. I recommend you to have at least this numbers. Rudder 45 degree, elevator 40 degree, aileron 35 degree. If you can go for higher number it will be better because the quick spinning will be quicker and tighter. CG does not need to modify for this maneuver, I found a bit better when the CG is on the nose heavy for 3D aerobatic.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Climb as I explained before, make sure before you push vertical to have all at high rate, this is important to avoid crashes!, so dive rolling slow left and when it is the time to spin, use this technique, full down elevator, full right rudder and full left aileron, this is the best sequence too. This sequence needs to be done continuously, this means as soon you reach full down you go right rudder and as soon you get with the rudder to full go with the aileron. All the movement of your thumbs needs to be quick. This is a very hard maneuver for the airplane and you actually can bend the wing tube! Or if the wing it is not strong enough even worse you can crash the airplane! so to reduce the G's when you decide to do the spin go with the sticks slower to the full position, this will make the airplane to start to spin with less angle of attack loading less the airplane. If you feel you putting to many G's to your airplane try this sequence, full aileron then full rudder and elevator at same time, but the rudder and elevator should not go so quick to full stick position, go a bit slower. Once you see your airplane it is spinning flat open the throttle to full position to increase the spinning and to maintain altitude, keep the power at that position till you feel the airplane wants like to fly out of the spin. From that inverted flat spin you can do any thing you want!, like go to a torque roll, Cobra, etc.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-53271617658447273972009-03-01T03:11:00.006+08:002009-03-01T03:27:49.513+08:00The Waterfall<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">The waterfall is a maneuver where the plane pivots 360 degrees in the pitch axes with very little forward motion and altitude gain or loss.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">The primary control surface is the elevator followed by the rudder and finally the ailerons. The control rates should be set for maximum deflection, not that you will need that much, but it's a good place to start. Later, if you find that you’re consistently not using max to do the maneuver, you can dial some out. Remember the plane will be VERY sensitive in these rates. There's two ways to manage this. One, is to have dual rates, the other is to have a lot of expo dialed in to make the plane less sensitive around the neutral point of your radio.</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span></span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">The waterfall is a fairly easy 3-D maneuver to learn. There's two ways to enter. One, from a harrier, the other is from just above a stall. Let's start from just above a stall. From a safe altitude, slow the aircraft until you feel that it's at it's slowest CONTROLLABLE speed. When the plane is directly in front of you, push full down elevator and apply enough power to rotate the plane 360 degrees back to the upright position. How much power? That will depend on the type plane and engine. Start by using full power, after a while you will be able to tell how much it actually takes to get the plane to rotate.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Entering from a harrier will basically the same. It's actually a little easier because the plane is in a nose high attitude and will have more momentum as the nose comes down on the rotation.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Trickiest Part</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">The hardest part is keeping the plane from falling off of one side or the other. The rudder is the most effective control having the most air moving by it because of engine thrust. The first few that you do, the plane will probable fall one side or the other. Use rudder opposite to the fall to keep it upright. Ailerons help some, but remember, this is a 3-D maneuver and the plane's not flying. There's very little air moving over the wings so the ailerons are not very effective. The other tricky part is stopping the plane as it comes over the top. You can either fly out by releasing the elevator and keeping the power in, or go right into another by not releasing the elevator. With practice, you can get the plane to make consistent small tight circles in a very small space.</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span></span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;font-family:arial;" >Recovery</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:arial;">This is a pretty safe maneuver if you keep enough altitude. The thing to remember is, THE PLANE'S NOT FLYING! If you over rotate the nose pasted level and want to recover, first get the plane flying by releasing the elevator and keeping the power in. If you fall off to one side, again, RELEASE THE ELEVATOR, use ailerons to get the plane upright, and use enough power to get the plane flying.</span></span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-55504580936432266172009-01-02T17:20:00.001+08:002009-03-01T03:10:42.197+08:00The Elevator<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The Elevator is when you completely stall the aircraft with a massive amount of elevator, either up or down, and it descends almost vertically down (Elevator) upright or inverted.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">There are two things needed to do the Elevator correctly,.<br />1. The CG on the tail Heavy Side.<br />2. 45+ degrees of Elevator travel.<br />Of the two, the 45 degrees of travel is the most important to have. A straight Leading Edge wing will also make it easier along with having Counterbalances on the elevators.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The easiest way to enter this maneuver is to go up a mistake or two high, and dive straight down. once the plane is pointed at the ground, after making sure the high rate elevator is on , pull full up, and hold it. Do not release it or hesitate when pulling, that allows the nose to come down and the plane will try to start flying again, then the wings will start rocking, and it won't look very much like an Elevator. If the nose comes up when you pull and then drops again, you can either add a click or two of power immediately after the pull, or move the CG back a little more.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">There is not anything super hard with this maneuver, as long as the above is followed. Most of the time people will not pull and hold the elevator, and the plane tries to fly out of it, still at a stall though and then starts rocking the wings (PIN THE STICK)</span>.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">To get out of this maneuver, power can be added while releasing the elevator slowly and just let the plane fly out, or simply release the elevator, the nose will fall through, build some speed and gently pull out</span>.<br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-2569837131095881152009-01-02T17:08:00.002+08:002009-01-02T17:13:28.002+08:00The Pogo<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Hover that climbs and descends.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Normal 3D set-up.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Establish your controlled hover. Make sure the plane is vertical and stable before performing. Apply power (3/4+) for 5 feet. Bring the power back (1/4-). "Fly" the plane back down the line. Apply throttle as needed, but in short bursts. Make sure the plane remains vertical on the descent.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The descent. Trying to fly the airplane backwards without any prop wash over the surfaces can make for some very uncontrolled times.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full power (away from anyone or anything). It's just like getting out of a hover.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-34409864336642203852009-01-02T17:00:00.004+08:002009-01-02T17:12:40.572+08:00The Torque Roll<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >What it is</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Plane "Hovers" vertically in place, rotating left around its roll axis.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Plane Set-up</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Full 3D throws in elevator and rudder are a must. An aft CG helps a little also. Some flyers will run their CG back to make this maneuver easier, however a plane that is balanced will Torque Roll just as good as one that is tail heavy. It all about getting the plane in the sweet spot. Once you get the plane completely vertical it become very easy. That is the hardest part is recognizing the true vertical plane. The pros will also tell you to add 3/4 degree of up thrust to your engine. This helps keep your plane from falling forward in the Torque Roll, and it'll fly straighter up lines in non-3D maneuvers, too.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >How to do it</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The easiest way to learn is to start by learning the "Elevator" and then the "Harrier". After you have mastered this it is an easy transition to the Hover. Once you can "Hover" then "Torque Rolling" is the next step. As your plane descends in an "Elevator" start adding power as your near the ground this will transition you into a Harrier. All you have to do from here is give a short burst of power and your plane should stand up vertically. Adjust throttle to keep the nose pointed up and make corrections with rudder and elevator to keep things straight. One thing to remember is that most planes want to fall off to the left and toward the landing gear. (Tip: Most of the inputs that you give are up elevator and right rudder.) The throttle curve is key for this maneuver. Set your ATV or Travel to the maximum %. You will then need to find a servo arm that enables you to open and close the carburetor completely without backing down your travel. This is getting your throttle mechanically perfect as you can get it. The next step is setting up your throttle curve. This takes a little time and patience but it is well worth the time and effort. The key is that once you find the stick position that the plane will hover, you want to set your curve so that your are hovering when the throttle stick is at half throttle. You adjust your curve from there as needed to barley let the plane climb or decent with one click up or down on the throttle. This really keeps you from fighting with the throttle and lets you focus on controlling the plane.</span><span style="font-family:arial;"><br /><br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Trickiest Part</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Recognizing your correction when the plane's belly is toward you. (Tip: Think push the rudder toward the low wing when the belly is toward you.) You have to be fast with throttle corrections. Most flyers add "bursts" of power, along with rudder/elevator corrections. If you simply hold full throttle, you'll climb out of the maneuver. One of the most common mistakes is giving wrong rudder inputs when the plane is belly in.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;font-family:arial;" >Recovery</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Fly out at full throttle.</span><br /><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-35821891931527335082009-01-02T16:40:00.005+08:002009-01-02T17:13:06.914+08:00Airplane 3D Maneuvers<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family:arial;">3D maneuvers are performed when the airplane is in a stalled condition. These maneuvers are done with the airplane at nose high 45-degree angles, at hanging on the prop or a tumble tail-over-nose gyro rations.<br /><br />For a good 3D airplane setup, start with having lots of throw in the control surfaces and a very powerful and reliable engine. Sadly some airplanes just 3D better than others. The Edge & Extra are examples of good 3D models to fly.<br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">List of common 3D maneuvers</span>.<br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Torque Roll"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Pogo"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Elevator"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Harrier"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Waterfall"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Panic"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Blaino Draino"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Snap Up"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Yo-Yo"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The roller coaster"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Terminator"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Wall"</span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">"The Harrier Roll"<br /><br /></span></span></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-71580329001883083132008-08-03T14:25:00.005+08:002008-08-03T14:42:36.643+08:00How to Choose the Right Glow Plug<p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">The "right" glow plug for your engine is the one that gives you the best performance. And you can choose the right plug for any situation, just by following the guidelines below.</span></p><div face="arial" style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><div face="arial" style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><div face="arial" style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">1. Engine Type - Know what type of engine you have. Is it a standard - or a turbo?</span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Standard engines (engines with a 1-piece head) are most common. Standard plugs are easily available, inexpensive and fit almost all standard engines. Standard plugs are installed with a washer, which creates a compression seal with the head. </span></p><div face="arial" style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Many new engines are turbo engines, which feature a special 2-piece turbo head. The biggest benefit of turbo plugs is superior performance. Unlike standard plugs, turbo plugs (identified by a "P" in the description) feature a tapered "seat" that matches perfectly with the head that will creates a superior compression seal and with it, maximum efficiency and power. Turbo plugs are the choice for racers who want and need top performance. </span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Caution : You should never install a turbo plug in a standard engine or vice versa. Doing so may cause serious (and expensive!) damage.</span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">2. Displacement - </span><span style="font-size:100%;">What size is your engine? Is it .12? .15? .21?</span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Size matters to glow plugs. Big engines have more mass and retain heat better. Smaller, lighter engines don't, and need the help a hotter plug can offer. Therefore, the smaller the engine, the hotter the plug.</span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">3. Fuel Nitromethane Content - </span><span style="font-size:100%;">What's the nitro percentage in your fuel?</span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">High-nitro fuels produce more power than low-nitro fuels, but also produce more heat.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> Hence, the higher the nitro content, the colder the plug.</span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">4. Temperature</span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Smart modelers tend to keep a variety of glow plugs on hand. Simply because the "right" plug for your engine can change with the temperature. To achieve top performance, your choice of plug needs to change, too. Also, the hotter the day, use a colder plug.</span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-weight: bold; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">5. Other Considerations - </span><span style="font-size:100%;">A few other things you should know.</span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Hot plugs promote better idling and acceleration. If your engine runs rough or accelerates sluggishly, a hotter plug will help. </span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Cold plugs produce more power and may improve performance if your engine runs hot. The downside is rougher idling and more difficulty in tuning. </span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Where you run also plays a part. If the track/course has a lot of twists and turns, a hot plug is fine. If the track/course has long straights where you'll reach maximum rpm, a colder plug is best. </span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Fuel-air mix not only affects how your engine performs; it can also have an impact on how long your plug lasts. If you run rich, it means that you're using more fuel than necessary for top performance. Modelers are often advised to run rich during engine break-in, because it helps cool the engine. However, running too rich can also cause an engine to "bog down" or quit entirely. In addition, it also means that the glow element is being exposed to more contaminants than necessary, which shortens plug life. </span></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"> </div><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Running lean means that you're using less fuel. "Leaning down" an engine has a positive effect on performance. However, care is needed here, because over-leaning an engine can harm it, by raising operating temperatures, "burn up" a plug before its time.</span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:100%;" ><span>6. Finally</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span></p><p style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;font-family:arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;">Choosing the right glow plug not only improves performance, but can also extend the life of your engine and the glow plug itself. Here are a few more tips for you.</span><br /></p><div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size:100%;"></span><ul><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Buy quality plugs. You're protecting your investment.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Store plugs where it's dry. Moisture can ruin them.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Use the right glow plug. Follow the guidelines above.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Follow proper break-in procedures.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Tune your engine carefully. Running too lean will make your engine "blow" plugs more often. Proper tuning helps extend plug life.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Never touch the filament of a glow plug. Doing so can break the filament and ruin a plug.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Don't overtighten your plug. Tighten it until just tight.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Be sure to shim your engine correctly. A plug that's too close to the piston can cause pre-detonation, which will quickly damage a glow plug.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Use only a glow starter or 1.5V battery to heat your plug. Otherwise, your plug may burn out ahead of its time.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:100%;">Don't be afraid to ask for help. Experienced modelers have already "been there and done that." Their experience can save you time and money - and most are glad to help.</span></li></ul></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-53582217050179901122008-08-03T14:20:00.002+08:002008-08-03T14:25:01.504+08:00How a Glow Plug Works?<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Spark plugs in gasoline engines start ignition with a spark. In nitro engines, glow plugs cause ignition with </span><span style="font-family:arial;">heat</span><span style="font-family:arial;">.<br /><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Heat is created initially by connecting a glow starter or 1.5V battery to the plug. Once the plug comes up to heat, the battery is disconnected and the heat retained by the combustion chamber will keep the engine running. Engine timing is automatic and controlled by engine RPM. Running at higher RPM makes the plug hotter and "fire" the fuel-air mix sooner. At lower RPM, the filament cools and the plug fires less frequently.</span></div><span style="font-family:arial,helvetica;"><p> </p></span>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-78156440451636345772008-06-27T21:53:00.002+08:002008-06-27T22:15:58.489+08:00Flying at Damai<span style="font-family: arial;">First flying video taken at Damai with Flycam One.</span><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzmQWGgJBdPrmrI19p8yY4-_-wwxXZ5CpNz19nCQ0VzhG4a5ZfwhzlzqOf9UDj-gj0w66WLDLmE6GRKqN3Yig' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-47349687707410534932008-05-03T07:51:00.004+08:002008-05-03T08:04:20.042+08:00Removing Unwanted Epoxy Blob / Stain from your Model?<span style="font-family:arial;">How many times have you got that unwanted and excess epoxy after joining two joints together and leaving behind the ugly residue?</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">or</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">How many times have you got epoxied fingerprint all over your beloved models?</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">or</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">How many time have you tried to removed some dried out epoxy but failed?</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Well here's the solution! </span><span id="offerings" style="font-family:arial;"> <span style="font-weight: bold;">Denatured Alcohol!</span></span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span id="offerings"> Denatured Alcohol is a gentle, multi-purpose solvent, which is essential for thinning shellac and cleaning brushes. It evaporates quickly, making it an excellent glass cleaner. Also works great for cleaning metal, water rings, color-safe fabrics, and it is even used as a hot, clean-burning fuel for marine stoves. Best of all it removes epoxy! Even for long dried out epoxy, just 'soaked' it using </span><span id="offerings"> Denatured Alcohol and clean / scrapped it off after that.</span><br /></div><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">So what is this wonderful solvent? A quick definition and explanation of </span><span id="offerings" style="font-family:arial;"> Denatured Alcohol here in the Wiki.</span><br /><br /><a style="font-family: arial;" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methylated_spirits">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methylated_spirits</a>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-25957247522197119092008-03-23T18:38:00.005+08:002008-03-23T19:14:29.592+08:00Wing Fence<span style="font-family:arial;">The term “wing fence” may also be identified by the terms “boundary layer fence,” “potential fence,” or simply “fence.”</span><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Wing fences have been used on swept wing aircraft for fifty years. The MiG-15, one of the earliest examples of their use, incorporated two fences on each wing. The F-86 used them as well. Fences can also be seen on more recent production aircraft like the Fiat G91 and the BAE Hawk and Harrier.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:arial;">Despite their use on aircraft flying at supersoni</span><span style="font-family:arial;">c and near supersonic speeds, wing fences are also of use on low speed swept wing aircraft such as man carrying sailplanes and RC models. The Akaflieg Bra</span><span style="font-family:arial;">unschweig SB-13 and a rendition of Hans-Jürgen Unverferth’s CO8 by Glyn Fonteneau and Dave Camp serve as examples within those realms. </span> <span style="font-family:arial;">Wing fences have both an interesting history and an interesting effect.</span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family:arial;">A wing fence is nothing more than a flat plate which is attached perpendicular to the wing and in line with the free stream air flow. Wolfgang Liebe is credited as being the inventor of the device, for which he received a German patent in 1938, during his work on the Messerschmitt Bf 109B. </span> <span style="font-family:arial;">The Messerschmitt Bf 109B had a rather peculiar stall.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The stall initiated at the wing root, and a cross span flow very near the leading edge then travelled outward toward the wing tip at high speed. The result of this aerodynamic behavior was that the entire wing stalled at essentially the same time, a very dangerous characteristic. </span><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Installation of a wing fence prevented the cross span fl</span><span style="font-family:arial;">ow, thus eliminating the stall problem. </span> <span style="font-family:arial;">That a solid plate in the path of cross span flow close to the wing surface would obstruct the flow, as was seen on the Bf 109B, may seem obvious. </span><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family:arial;">In actuality, however, the mechanism of operation was more covert in that the beneficial effect was provided by the initiation of a sideslip and the resulting vortex generated by the fence. </span> <span style="font-family:arial;">Wing fences on swept wings have been found to be very beneficial to inhibiting the nasty stall behaviors which result from severe angles of sweep, but their operation in this environment is entirely different than on a straight wing such as the Bf 109B. </span><br /></div><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">As we mentioned in the opening parenthetical paragraph, wing fences have had other terminologies applied to them. “Boundary layer fence” is the most common, so let’s take a critical look at that nomenclature for a moment.</span></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family:arial;">The boundary layer is that region next to the surface of a solid body where there is an appreciable loss of total pressure. That is, the velocity is a fraction of the free stream flow. The boundary layer thickness is usually defined as the distance normal to the surface in which the velocity rises to 99% of that of the main flow. The boundary layer is in reality not very thick, usually a matter of a few millimeters, even on full size aircraft.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span><span style="font-family:arial;">With the above definition in mind :</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">If a wing fence is constructed to be the same height as the boundary layer thickness, it is not effective. In fact, fences must be quite high to have </span><span style="font-family:arial;">any effect at all.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span><span style="font-family:arial;">The boundary layer gets thicker toward the trailing edge of the wing, so if fence height were based on the boundary layer thickness the fence would be highest at the trailing edge of the wing. Yet extending the length of a fence much beyond 50% chord does not increase its effectiveness in the slightest.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span><span style="font-family:arial;">Wing fences are generally more effective when they wrap around the leading edge.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The term “boundary layer fence” is, as illustrated by the above points, a misnomer. Wing fences do not affect the boundary layer directly, but rather do so indir</span><span style="font-family:arial;">ectly by having an impact on the po</span><span style="font-family:arial;">tential flow, the flow in which the vorticity is zero.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The term “potential fence” is derived from the action of the fence on the potential flow. </span> <span style="font-family:arial;">Wing fences on swept wings work in a very complex way, and their action is not completely understood, but we’ll attempt to make the fundamental concepts easier to understand.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"> </span><span style="font-family:arial;">Begin by thinking of a swept wing panel mounted in a wind tunnel and its associated lift distribution, as shown in Figure 1. Note that if the right wall is rem</span><span style="font-family:arial;">oved we have a right wing panel for a swept back wing; if the left wall is removed we have the left wing panel of a swept forward wing.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">From a slightly different perspective, by removing the walls and attaching a “mirror” wing panel to either the left or right end of the existing wing, we have a complete wing, swept either back</span><span style="font-family:arial;">ward or forward, and an associated lift distribution as depicted in Figure 2.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We can consider a wing fence to be aerodynamically equivalent to a tunnel wall. This effect is demonstrated in a more comprehensive way in Figure 3.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Installing a wing fence changes the lift distribution on a swept back wing as depicted in Figure 4. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Note that on the inside of the fence the cl is higher while on the outside of the fence the cl is lower. This shifting of the load to the inside of the fence is very beneficial to stall behavior.</span> <span style="font-family:arial;">The clmax should be located in the area approximately 40% of the semi-span from the wing root. At a high angle of attack, this should be the area of the wing which stalls, leaving the wing root and the wing tip to continue providing lift and a slight pitch down moment.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">When high angles of attack lead to separated flow, the boundary layer is directly involved at a fundamental level. Corrective measures must influence the boundary layer </span><span style="font-family:arial;">in such a way that flow separation is limited or controlled to some extent. As previ</span><span style="font-family:arial;">ously said, wing fences do not directly influence the boundary layer.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Rather, they influence the potential flow which in turn effects the boundary layer. In general terms, the cl load on the wing tips is reduced, the boundary layer is maintained in such a way that separation is inhibited, and the stall behavior is made more benign. </span> <span style="font-family:arial;">Rarely do wing fences extend farther than 1/3 of the wing chord. The forward third of the chord is the area of greatest lift. It is also the area where the sweep effect and the “mirror” principle, described in Figures 1 through 4, are most effective.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">For use on RC sailplanes, wing fences are usually constructed using a profile similar to those shown in Fig</span><span style="font-family:arial;">ure 5 and are fabricated of stiff cardstock or plastic. They can be conveniently attached with tape for easy removal, replacement, and/or experimentation.</span> <span style="font-family:arial;">The most common location for wing fences is between 40% and 60% of the wing span.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">A location directly in front of the inner edge of the aileron or elevon has shown to be very effective at controlling adverse stall behaviors and maintaining control surface effectiveness at high angles of attack. Installing two fences on each wing panel, at 1/3 and 2/3 of the semi-span, has been found to be effective on high aspect ratio wings with steep sweep angles.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Wing fences are sometimes not easily seen. Most airliners have their engines mounted below the wing on pylons. The pylon itself serves as a fence for the lower surface, and the leading edge pylon fairing often comes over the leading edge, ser</span><span style="font-family:arial;">ving as a fence for the upper surface.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Controlling air flow to improve swept wing flight characteristics can be accomplished through a number of means - wing slots (as described in our August 1994 column), leading edge slats, and the “saw tooth” leading edge to name just a few. Wing fences are attractive, however, because they can be fabricated quickly, attached readily, and modified easily without affecting the main airframe in any way.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">So far as cost and ability to experiment, they are the best suited solution.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6kdO5g-9kvFdsFdfMPhkgJI-XPmj-J6JeW42c4MqaK5z3JyS42pvjcgSIbiQjnGBbQdfh9qmuJZFXH8DbvjcR6cPlSxe1MsF2sAaEXPggRBc_lHG-IsP-d9WFeLbvrcDYnp-1xLnsenqU/s1600-h/WingFence.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6kdO5g-9kvFdsFdfMPhkgJI-XPmj-J6JeW42c4MqaK5z3JyS42pvjcgSIbiQjnGBbQdfh9qmuJZFXH8DbvjcR6cPlSxe1MsF2sAaEXPggRBc_lHG-IsP-d9WFeLbvrcDYnp-1xLnsenqU/s320/WingFence.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180893413099208162" border="0" /></a><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-10100250478110441762008-03-23T18:06:00.002+08:002008-03-23T18:09:51.251+08:00KF Airfoil Vortex<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeP0ZIo67HikUJ16iKy-Ge0vWWPoiZ7wfsOtLEVMGRPh6Uch4Rx3HeZpHfupeDJ1yl32juhLuxJrt2ln5DVd0I5FjLvyMNCXWNcwAhsM-u48Zwcj1e1iCl5PEPxlAZ9DWLWirvV7I7PZSC/s1600-h/KF-Airfoil-Vortex-Attach.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeP0ZIo67HikUJ16iKy-Ge0vWWPoiZ7wfsOtLEVMGRPh6Uch4Rx3HeZpHfupeDJ1yl32juhLuxJrt2ln5DVd0I5FjLvyMNCXWNcwAhsM-u48Zwcj1e1iCl5PEPxlAZ9DWLWirvV7I7PZSC/s320/KF-Airfoil-Vortex-Attach.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180876890360020402" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-38206259758501778662008-03-23T17:50:00.005+08:002008-03-23T18:06:34.788+08:00How to Convert a 2 Blade to a 3 or 4 Blade Propeller?<div style="text-align: justify;font-family:arial;"><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >The conversion for a 3 and 4 bladed propeller is a simple tasked if you know what 2 bladed propeller you use on a given Engine or Motor. For example, on a three bladed</span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" > </span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >propeller you would</span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" > <u style="font-family:arial;"><span style="color: rgb(255, 102, 51);">drop the diameter and keep the pitch</span></u></span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >. On a four bladed, you would </span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" ><u><span style="color: rgb(255, 102, 51);">drop the diameter and the pitch</span></u></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >.</span><span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" > </span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >For </span><span style=";font-family:arial;font-size:100%;" >instance if you had a two bladed 24-10 propeller and you wanted a three bladed you would use a 22-10 and<span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"> </span>so on.</span><span style=";font-family:Bookman Old Style;font-size:100%;" ><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The performance on a 2 bladed verses a 3 bladed propeller is very little. A 3 or 4 bladed propeller will give you more thrust, and you will sacrifice a little speed. The big advantage to using a multi blade is that you have more ground clearance less noise factor.</span><br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><u style="font-weight: bold;">3 & 4 BLADED CONVERSION CHART</u><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span></span><br /></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><table border="1" cellspacing="1" width="313"> <tbody><tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><b><i>Two Bladed</i></b></span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><b><i>Three Bladed</i></b></span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><b><i>Four Bladed</i></b></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">10-6</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">9-6</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">11-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">10-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">10-6</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">12-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">11-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">11-6</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">12-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">11-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">11-8</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">13-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">12-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">12-8</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">14-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">13-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">13-8</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">14-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">13-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">13-6</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">15-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">14-8</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">14-6</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">15-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">14-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">14-8</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">16-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">15-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">15-8</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">18-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">16-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">16-8</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">20-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">18-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">18-8</span></td> </tr> <tr> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">22-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="103"><span style="font-size:100%;">20-10</span></td> <td style="text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" border="" bordercolordark="#000000" width="104"><span style="font-size:100%;">20-8</span></td> </tr> </tbody></table><br /></div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-86728119495640333712008-02-12T22:21:00.000+08:002008-01-13T23:10:37.282+08:00Thermal Soaring<div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;">Thermal soaring is one of the most intriguing of all aspects. It can be hard for the average person to understand how a plane can fly for hours and gain altitude without a motor!<br /><br />It takes a lot of concentration to thermal soar effectively. A sailplane can fly along the edge of a thermal and unless the pilot is carefully watching the model he may not realize the opportunity to gain some altitude. Because most thermals are relatively small (a couple hundred feet in diameter or less at 400' altitude) compared to the rest of the sky, the sailplanes will rarely fly directly into the thermal and start rising.Generally, the sailplane will fly into the edge or near a thermal and the effects the thermal has on the plane may be almost unnoticeable. As the sailplane approaches a thermal, the wing tip that reaches the rising air first will be lifted before the opposite wing tip. This causes the plane to “bank” and turn away from where we would like the plane to go.<br /><br />When you are thermal soaring, try to fly as smoothly and straight as possible. Trim the plane to fly in a straight line and only touch the controls when you have to. Watch the sailplane carefully and it will tell you what it is encountering.When the sailplane flies directly into a thermal it will either start rising or stop sinking. Either case is reason enough to start circling (especially in a contest where every second counts). Fly straight ahead until you feel like you are in the strongest lift, fly a couple of seconds farther (so your circle will be centered in the strongest lift) and then start circling in a fairly tight but smooth turn. When the sailplane is low the turns have to be tighter to stay in the strongest lift. As the plane gains altitude, the turns can be larger and flatter. The flatter the turn, the more efficient the plane is flying, but don’t be afraid to really “crank” it into a steep bank when you are low. If you see the plane falling off on one side of the turn, move your circle over into the stronger lift. Thermals move along with the wind so as you circle you will be swept along with it. Be careful when thermaling, that you don’t get so far downwind you can’t make it back to the field to land. If the sailplane is flying along straight and all of a sudden turns, let the plane continue to bank (you may have to give it some rudder to keep it banking) until it has turned 270°(3/4 of a full circle). Straighten out the bank and fly into whatever turned the plane. If you encounter lift, and you won’t every time, start circling just as you did when flying directly into a thermal.<br /><br />Thermals are generated all day long, but the strongest thermals are produced when the sun is directly overhead. 10:00 am – 2:00 pm seems to be the best time to get those“killer” thermals. Some of these thermals can be very large and you may find it hard to get out of them. If you find yourself getting too high, don’t dive the plane to get out of the lift. Sailplanes are very efficient aircraft and they will build up a lot of speed and could “blow up” in the rough air of a thermal. The easiest way to lose altitude is to apply full rudder and full up elevator. This will put the plane into a tight spin that will not over stress the air frame but it will enable it to lose altitude very quickly. This is especially helpful if the sailplane gets sucked into a cloud or it gets too high to see.The twirling action will give the sun a better chance off lashing off of the wing and catching your attention. When you are high enough and want to leave the thermal, add a little down trim to pick up some speed and fly 90 degrees to the direction of the wind. If you are not real high and want to find another thermal, you may want to look upwind of the last thermal. The same source that generated this thermal is probably producing another. Just watch out for “sink” which is often found behind and between thermals.<br /><br />As you might expect, with all this air rising, there is also air sinking. This air is the sailplane pilot’s nightmare that can really make soaring challenging. “Sink” is usually not as strong as the thermals in the same area, but it can be very strong. Down drafts of many hundreds of feet per minute are common on a good soaring day. These down drafts can make a sailplane look like it is falling out of the air. Because of this, it is important that you do not let the sailplane get too far downwind.<br /><br />When encountering sink, immediately turn and fly 90 degrees to the direction of the wind (towards you if possible). Apply a little “down elevator” and pick up some speed to get out of the sink as fast as possible. Every second you stay in the sink is precious altitude lost.</div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1073660839215151500.post-75796222436612456752008-02-12T22:12:00.000+08:002008-01-13T23:10:17.601+08:00Facts About Thermal<div style="text-align: justify; font-family: arial;">Thermals are a natural phenomenon that happen outside, by the millions, every single day of the year. Thermals are responsible for many things including forming several types of clouds, creating breezes, and distributing plant seeds and pollen. If you have ever seen a dust devil (which is nothing more than a thermal that has picked up some dust), you have seen a thermal in action. Their swirling action is very similar to that of a tornado but of course much gentler. Most thermals have updrafts rising in the 200 – 700 feet per minute range but they have been known to produce updrafts of over 5,000 feet per minute (that’s over 50 miles/hour straight up!) These strong thermals can rip a plane apart or carry the plane out of sight before the pilot can get out of the updraft.<br /><br />Thermals are formed by the uneven heating of the earth and buildings, etc. by the sun. The darker colored surfaces absorb heat faster than the lighter colors, which reflect a great deal of the sun’s energy back into space. These darker areas (plowed fields, asphalt parking lots, tar roofs, etc.) get warmer than the lighter areas lakes, grassy fields, forests, etc.). This causes the air above the darker areas to be warmer than the air over the lighter areas and the more buoyant warm air rises as the cooler, denser air forces its way underneath the warmer air. As this warm air is forced upward, it contacts the cooler air of the higher altitudes. This larger temperature difference makes the thermal rise quicker. The thermal is gradually cooled by the surrounding cooler air and its strength diminishes. Eventually the thermal stops rising and any moisture contained in the once warm air condenses and forms a puffy cumulus cloud. These clouds, which mark the tops of thermals, are usually between 2000 and 5000 feet high.</div>Simply-RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06399710303284867288noreply@blogger.com0