The Elevator

What it is
The Elevator is when you completely stall the aircraft with a massive amount of elevator, either up or down, and it descends almost vertically down (Elevator) upright or inverted.

Plane Set-up
There are two things needed to do the Elevator correctly,.
1. The CG on the tail Heavy Side.
2. 45+ degrees of Elevator travel.
Of the two, the 45 degrees of travel is the most important to have. A straight Leading Edge wing will also make it easier along with having Counterbalances on the elevators.

How to do it
The easiest way to enter this maneuver is to go up a mistake or two high, and dive straight down. once the plane is pointed at the ground, after making sure the high rate elevator is on , pull full up, and hold it. Do not release it or hesitate when pulling, that allows the nose to come down and the plane will try to start flying again, then the wings will start rocking, and it won't look very much like an Elevator. If the nose comes up when you pull and then drops again, you can either add a click or two of power immediately after the pull, or move the CG back a little more.

Trickiest Part
There is not anything super hard with this maneuver, as long as the above is followed. Most of the time people will not pull and hold the elevator, and the plane tries to fly out of it, still at a stall though and then starts rocking the wings (PIN THE STICK).

Recovery
To get out of this maneuver, power can be added while releasing the elevator slowly and just let the plane fly out, or simply release the elevator, the nose will fall through, build some speed and gently pull out.

The Pogo

What it is
Hover that climbs and descends.

Plane Set-up
Normal 3D set-up.

How to do it
Establish your controlled hover. Make sure the plane is vertical and stable before performing. Apply power (3/4+) for 5 feet. Bring the power back (1/4-). "Fly" the plane back down the line. Apply throttle as needed, but in short bursts. Make sure the plane remains vertical on the descent.

Trickiest Part
The descent. Trying to fly the airplane backwards without any prop wash over the surfaces can make for some very uncontrolled times.

Recovery
Full power (away from anyone or anything). It's just like getting out of a hover.

The Torque Roll

What it is
Plane "Hovers" vertically in place, rotating left around its roll axis.

Plane Set-up
Full 3D throws in elevator and rudder are a must. An aft CG helps a little also. Some flyers will run their CG back to make this maneuver easier, however a plane that is balanced will Torque Roll just as good as one that is tail heavy. It all about getting the plane in the sweet spot. Once you get the plane completely vertical it become very easy. That is the hardest part is recognizing the true vertical plane. The pros will also tell you to add 3/4 degree of up thrust to your engine. This helps keep your plane from falling forward in the Torque Roll, and it'll fly straighter up lines in non-3D maneuvers, too.

How to do it
The easiest way to learn is to start by learning the "Elevator" and then the "Harrier". After you have mastered this it is an easy transition to the Hover. Once you can "Hover" then "Torque Rolling" is the next step. As your plane descends in an "Elevator" start adding power as your near the ground this will transition you into a Harrier. All you have to do from here is give a short burst of power and your plane should stand up vertically. Adjust throttle to keep the nose pointed up and make corrections with rudder and elevator to keep things straight. One thing to remember is that most planes want to fall off to the left and toward the landing gear. (Tip: Most of the inputs that you give are up elevator and right rudder.) The throttle curve is key for this maneuver. Set your ATV or Travel to the maximum %. You will then need to find a servo arm that enables you to open and close the carburetor completely without backing down your travel. This is getting your throttle mechanically perfect as you can get it. The next step is setting up your throttle curve. This takes a little time and patience but it is well worth the time and effort. The key is that once you find the stick position that the plane will hover, you want to set your curve so that your are hovering when the throttle stick is at half throttle. You adjust your curve from there as needed to barley let the plane climb or decent with one click up or down on the throttle. This really keeps you from fighting with the throttle and lets you focus on controlling the plane.

Trickiest Part
Recognizing your correction when the plane's belly is toward you. (Tip: Think push the rudder toward the low wing when the belly is toward you.) You have to be fast with throttle corrections. Most flyers add "bursts" of power, along with rudder/elevator corrections. If you simply hold full throttle, you'll climb out of the maneuver. One of the most common mistakes is giving wrong rudder inputs when the plane is belly in.

Recovery
Fly out at full throttle.

Airplane 3D Maneuvers

3D maneuvers are performed when the airplane is in a stalled condition. These maneuvers are done with the airplane at nose high 45-degree angles, at hanging on the prop or a tumble tail-over-nose gyro rations.

For a good 3D airplane setup, start with having lots of throw in the control surfaces and a very powerful and reliable engine. Sadly some airplanes just 3D better than others. The Edge & Extra are examples of good 3D models to fly.

List of common 3D maneuvers.

"The Torque Roll"
"The Pogo"
"The Elevator"
"The Harrier"
"The Waterfall"
"The Panic"
"The Blaino Draino"
"The Snap Up"
"The Yo-Yo"
"The roller coaster"
"The Terminator"
"The Wall"
"The Harrier Roll"

How to Choose the Right Glow Plug

The "right" glow plug for your engine is the one that gives you the best performance. And you can choose the right plug for any situation, just by following the guidelines below.

1. Engine Type - Know what type of engine you have. Is it a standard - or a turbo?

Standard engines (engines with a 1-piece head) are most common. Standard plugs are easily available, inexpensive and fit almost all standard engines. Standard plugs are installed with a washer, which creates a compression seal with the head.

Many new engines are turbo engines, which feature a special 2-piece turbo head. The biggest benefit of turbo plugs is superior performance. Unlike standard plugs, turbo plugs (identified by a "P" in the description) feature a tapered "seat" that matches perfectly with the head that will creates a superior compression seal and with it, maximum efficiency and power. Turbo plugs are the choice for racers who want and need top performance.

Caution : You should never install a turbo plug in a standard engine or vice versa. Doing so may cause serious (and expensive!) damage.

2. Displacement - What size is your engine? Is it .12? .15? .21?

Size matters to glow plugs. Big engines have more mass and retain heat better. Smaller, lighter engines don't, and need the help a hotter plug can offer. Therefore, the smaller the engine, the hotter the plug.

3. Fuel Nitromethane Content - What's the nitro percentage in your fuel?

High-nitro fuels produce more power than low-nitro fuels, but also produce more heat. Hence, the higher the nitro content, the colder the plug.

4. Temperature

Smart modelers tend to keep a variety of glow plugs on hand. Simply because the "right" plug for your engine can change with the temperature. To achieve top performance, your choice of plug needs to change, too. Also, the hotter the day, use a colder plug.

5. Other Considerations - A few other things you should know.

Hot plugs promote better idling and acceleration. If your engine runs rough or accelerates sluggishly, a hotter plug will help.

Cold plugs produce more power and may improve performance if your engine runs hot. The downside is rougher idling and more difficulty in tuning.

Where you run also plays a part. If the track/course has a lot of twists and turns, a hot plug is fine. If the track/course has long straights where you'll reach maximum rpm, a colder plug is best.

Fuel-air mix not only affects how your engine performs; it can also have an impact on how long your plug lasts. If you run rich, it means that you're using more fuel than necessary for top performance. Modelers are often advised to run rich during engine break-in, because it helps cool the engine. However, running too rich can also cause an engine to "bog down" or quit entirely. In addition, it also means that the glow element is being exposed to more contaminants than necessary, which shortens plug life.

Running lean means that you're using less fuel. "Leaning down" an engine has a positive effect on performance. However, care is needed here, because over-leaning an engine can harm it, by raising operating temperatures, "burn up" a plug before its time.

6. Finally

Choosing the right glow plug not only improves performance, but can also extend the life of your engine and the glow plug itself. Here are a few more tips for you.

• Buy quality plugs. You're protecting your investment.
• Store plugs where it's dry. Moisture can ruin them.
• Use the right glow plug. Follow the guidelines above.
• Follow proper break-in procedures.
• Tune your engine carefully. Running too lean will make your engine "blow" plugs more often. Proper tuning helps extend plug life.
• Never touch the filament of a glow plug. Doing so can break the filament and ruin a plug.
• Don't overtighten your plug. Tighten it until just tight.
• Be sure to shim your engine correctly. A plug that's too close to the piston can cause pre-detonation, which will quickly damage a glow plug.
• Use only a glow starter or 1.5V battery to heat your plug. Otherwise, your plug may burn out ahead of its time.
• Don't be afraid to ask for help. Experienced modelers have already "been there and done that." Their experience can save you time and money - and most are glad to help.

How a Glow Plug Works?

Spark plugs in gasoline engines start ignition with a spark. In nitro engines, glow plugs cause ignition with heat.

Heat is created initially by connecting a glow starter or 1.5V battery to the plug. Once the plug comes up to heat, the battery is disconnected and the heat retained by the combustion chamber will keep the engine running. Engine timing is automatic and controlled by engine RPM. Running at higher RPM makes the plug hotter and "fire" the fuel-air mix sooner. At lower RPM, the filament cools and the plug fires less frequently.